Why We Do Not Use Mineral Oil on Cutting Boards

If you read our last post on end grain cutting boards, you already know we’re picky about the stuff that actually affects performance and longevity. Grain orientation, glue ups, moisture movement, and how the board gets treated after it leaves the shop.
This post is about the finish.
Most cutting boards are treated with food grade mineral oil. It’s common, it’s widely used, and in the right grade it’s generally considered safe for a lot of everyday applications.
So why don’t we use it?
Because mineral oil is petroleum-derived, and we’d rather use a plant-based oil and beeswax system on something that lives in the center of the kitchen. No scare tactics. No hot takes. Just our preference.
Here’s what we do instead.
What we use at Atlas
Every Atlas end grain cutting board (we only sell end grain) is made in maple or walnut, then finished with:
Organic fractionated coconut oil as the base oil
Our board butter made from fractionated coconut oil + beeswax as the final top layer
We also include a small sample tin of board butter with every board so you can maintain it the same way we do.
Mineral oil, explained simply
Mineral oil starts as crude oil.
At a refinery, crude oil is heated and separated into different streams based on boiling range. The lighter streams become things like fuels. Mineral oil comes from heavier streams associated with lubricating base oils.
Those heavier streams then go through additional refining and purification steps to remove impurities and improve stability, often using hydrogen processing. That’s how you get a clean, consistent oil that performs the same bottle to bottle.
That consistency is a big reason mineral oil is so popular.
It’s also the reason we pass on it. Even when it’s highly refined, it is still petroleum-derived.
What is fractionated coconut oil?
Fractionated coconut oil is coconut oil with the heavier components removed. The simple, practical result is what we care about:
It stays liquid at room temperature
It spreads easily
It makes maintenance straightforward
Our finishing process (what we actually do)
After final sanding, we apply organic fractionated coconut oil and let the wood drink it in.
We keep applying coats until absorption slows down. End grain boards can take a surprising amount at first, especially maple.
Then we finish with board butter. That final step changes how the board feels in your hands and helps with day to day moisture resistance.
No heating. No complicated rituals. Just a repeatable system that works.
Why add beeswax?
Oil conditions the wood fibers. Beeswax adds a soft, protective layer on top.
Think of it like this:
The oil helps keep the board from drying out from the inside.
The beeswax helps shed water and gives the surface a smoother feel.
That combo is why we finish every board with both.
What we are not claiming
We’re not claiming mineral oil is unsafe.
We’re not claiming you’re doing something wrong if you use it.
We’re not claiming our finish is magic.
We’re just being honest about our preference and the system we’ve chosen to use on every board we make.
Maintenance, in plain language
End grain boards are tough, but they’re still wood. Wood moves with seasons. It gets wet. It dries out. Your job is to keep it from staying dry for too long.
Here’s the rule we follow:
If the board looks dry or feels dry, refresh it.
For a lot of homes, that ends up being every few weeks, depending on how often you cook, how you wash it, and how dry your house is.
Quick care basics
Wipe clean with a damp cloth, then dry right away.
Do not soak it.
Do not put it in the dishwasher.
Recondition when it looks thirsty.
Allergy note
Coconut sensitivities exist (they’re not common, but they’re real). Beeswax can also bother some people with very sensitive skin. If you know you react to coconut-derived products or beeswax, use your best judgment and reach out. We’ll always talk it through with you.
FAQ
Will coconut oil go rancid on a cutting board?
A lot of pantry oils can oxidize and go rancid, which is why people warn against using things like olive oil on boards. We use fractionated coconut oil because it is processed to be more stable and it stays liquid at room temperature. The bigger point is maintenance. Keep the board clean, dry it after wiping, and refresh it when it looks dry.
What makes fractionated coconut oil different from regular coconut oil?
Regular coconut oil can solidify when it’s cool. Fractionated coconut oil stays liquid and feels lighter, which makes it easier to apply and easier to maintain.
Why not just use beeswax alone?
Beeswax by itself sits on the surface. It doesn’t condition the wood fibers the same way oil does. Oil plus wax works as a system.
How often should I reapply board butter?
Start with every few weeks, then adjust based on the board. Heavy use and a dry house means more often. Light use means less.
Can I use your board butter on butcher blocks and wooden utensils?
Yes. It works well on butcher blocks, cutting boards, and most unfinished or oil-finished wooden kitchen items.
What if I already used mineral oil on my board?
No problem. Clean the board, let it fully dry, and then switch to board butter going forward.
Want to maintain your board the exact way we do?
If you want to treat your cutting board the same way we do in our shop, grab our Board Butter and keep it on the counter. When the board looks a little dry, rub a small amount in, let it sit, and wipe it off.
Board Butter: https://atlaswoodcompany.com/products/board-butter
End Grain Cutting Boards: https://atlaswoodcompany.com/collections/end-grain-cutting-boards